The Soviet legacy of Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar is a weird city. To people who first visit the Mongolian capital, it might seem like a bunch of different buildings tangled together in one big, weird mix. It’s quite old, although there are no buildings that suggest it is. The only really old constructions left are a few lucky Buddhist temples.

Ulaanbaatar, or UB, as the locals call it, was founded in 1639 as a nomadic Buddhist centre. Yes, in real Mongolian nomadic style the capital changed locations a few times, until it was decided in 1778 to settle in one place. Since then, the capital has been a Buddhist centre, its heydays being probably during the 1910s, when Mongolia acquired its independence from China and the last Mongolian king settled in Ulaanbaatar. The heydays didn’t last long: in the 1920s, the Soviets came to hang out and destroyed everything reminiscent of Buddhism. Only a few temples were lucky to survive, and these are the only ones that show that Mongolia is actually largely a Buddhist country.

Ulaanbaatar wasn’t a big city before the Soviets arrived, but when socialist policies were put in place, urbanisation became a thing. The Soviets engaged in urban planning and replaced whole ger-districts with flats. Therefore, most of the buildings that are present in Ulaanbaatar now, are of Soviet construction.

When walking around Ulaanbaatar, one thus cannot help but notice the omnipresent Soviet architecture. You either love it or hate it, but after studying in Moscow for half a year, I have become quite fond of it. Or maybe fond isn’t the right word, maybe seeing it here just reminds me of the amazing time I spent in Moscow. Anyhow, seeing it here sparked my interest, and I decided to document some of the Soviet-style buildings in Ulaanbaatar. When walking around the city, it just blew my mind to realise that this architectural style had been designed by someone far away in Moscow, and had been put into place here. The rise and fall of empires will never go unnoticed.

There are many, many Soviet buildings, but I decided not to document the main ones. I wanted try to capture the real lives that people were and are living. Thus, I ventured off the main roads into the quiet neighbourhoods. Many thanks to Bujinlkham Bandikhuu for providing me with information about most of the buildings!

Alright, there’s not much Soviet architecture visible on this picture, but I really liked it

A lot of Soviet buildings are crumbling away, and it doesn’t seem like the authorities are planning on reconstructing them any time soon. It gives a cool atmosphere to the buildings

Typical in Soviet architecture: the imitation of the ancient Greek temples

Getting off the big roads shows you how real life in Ulaanbaatar looks like

These colours: you either love them or hate them. I personally think that each colour is just a bit off, out of touch. It’s not a nice green and it’s definitely not a nice yellow. But apparently, it was the to go to palette for the Soviets

Notice the Corinthian columns

Some apartment blocks are being demolished as well. I’m not sure what was here, but my guess is that it was a Soviet apartment block

It was actually really enjoyable to walk on these quieter streets. There is more atmosphere in these neighbourhoods, as opposed to those around the new commercial buildings close to the main square

Again this yellow. What do you think?

The fence to the right was actually the entrance to the North Korean embassy. Behind the fence to the left were containers, in which people are living, it seemed

This is the former Mongolian National History Museum. It was constructed in 1953 and served as museum until 2014, when the new National History Museum opened. This old building proved to be too highly susceptible of earthquakes. As of now, nothing has happened to this building. It’s just empty

It sure has a hell of a lot of atmosphere

And it’s huge. The new building is quite small actually, and devoid of any personality

If nothing is happening to the building, I wonder whether this window has been open since 2014

This is the Central and Cultural Palace of the Mongolian Trade Union. Or, put simply, it’s the cultural centre of Ulaanbaatar. It was built in 1988 by the Soviets and given to the Mongolian people as a gift. What else it could be except a gift, I don’t know, but that’s not the point. Nowadays, theatre, opera and other cultural events are performed here. The high part in the back, reminiscent of a temple (weird enough for Soviet architecture), seemed to be empty when I walked past it. As with most old Soviet buildings

I love this design

This is the interior of the Palace. Imagine how in the times of the oppressing communist regime people came to listen to music here. Musical pieces, in which so much emotion and feedom is instilled. Maybe this is the only place where people could actually feel free for a short time

See the yin-yang symbol with the flame? That’s the national symbol of Mongolia. You see it everywhere here. But notice the star above the flame: that was Soviet Mongolia’s symbol

An old Soviet cinema in the background. Now a bank has an office here. It’s ironic how former buildings of communist usage are often changed into capitalist centres

Soviet apartment buildings

The Soviets loved archway passages

This is the Mongolian Art Centre for Children’s Creativity. It was built in 1958 by Dambiinyam B. Artwork is still presented here. Again, notice the corinthian columns and the statue

The first hotel of Ulaanbaatar, simply called: Ulaanbaatar Hotel

This is the square in front of the Ulaanbaatar Hotel. Built in 1959, the hotel has been renovated in 2006

As history progressed, as it does, the hotel became a popular place for men to go to with prostitutes. Ladies would often walk in front of the hotel to get customers. Whether that still is the case, I do not know. I did not investigate

It’s still pretty fancy